Method of making shoes



Nov. 4, i930. w. J. KELLY 1,780,650

vMETHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Jan. 30, 1950 llllluli., .E

ATTORN EYS Patented Nov. 4, 1930 UNITED STATES PATENT oFFlcE WILLIAM J. KELLY, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR OFONE-HALF TO ARTHUR C. BASCH, F BROOKLYN, NEW YORK METHOD or MAKING sHoEs Application led January 30, 1930. Serial No. 424,490. i

This invention relates to improvements in the method or art of making shoes and the principal object is'the new and improved method whereby shoes may be made with av minimum amount of material, a-minimum wastage and may be completely and uniformly lasted, well fitting, finished in appearance and have various other numerous advantagesv hereinafter set forth.

To the accomplishment of the foregoing and such .other objects as may hereinafter appear, this invention consists in the art or method of making shoes disclosed in the drawings and described in the specification and sought to be defined in the appended claims, it being expressly understoodthat changes may be made in practice within the scope of the claims without digressing from my inventive idea.

Figure 1 represents a side elevation of a shoe in the process of manufacture with the upper assembled on the last.

,Figure 2 is a vertical transverse cross section taken through the front portion of the assembly shown in Figure 1 showing-the manper inwhich the upper is pulled over the Figure 3 is a similar view showing the manner in which the lower part of the upper is wiped or forced in against the lower side edge portionsof the last.

Figure 4 is a similar View showing th y tacks driven into the sides of the last adj acent the bottom and near the edges of the same, this operation taking place at the same time that the wiping operation takes place.

Figure 5 is a similar'view showing the iirst sole applied to the last and then the upper pulled over.

Figure 6 is a c ross sectional view showing the step of sewing thev upper to thelirst sole.

Figure 7 is' a perspective view showing a portion of the upper and sole after the sewing operation is complete and showing how the stitch goes over the tack to hide the hole made by the tack.

This application is a continuation'in' part of my prior copending applications Serlal No. 95,853 le'd March 19, 1926, and serial No, 385,390 led August 12, 1929.

In the drawings the numeral 1 designates the last and 2-the u per. The first sole is designated by the re erence character 3, the

side tacksrby 4 and'the stitching b 5.-

The first step involves the assembling of the upper on the last and the pulling of the upper over the last, as indicated in Figure 2.

This is accomplished by the pull-over mechanism designated generally by the reference character 6, whereby the upper is pulled 'simultaneously downwardly and outwardly .on opposite sides of the last, as clearly shown in Figure 2., so that the bottom edges of the upper extend outwardly at a decided angle away last.

The next step involves the pushing or wiping in of the upper against the lower side ortions of the last. This is accomplished y the wiping mechanism shown lgenerally in Figure 3 and designated by the reference character 7 This forces a part of the upper from the lower side portions ofY the tightly against the sides of the last and forms the angle indicated by the reference character 8.

At or about this time the side tacks 4 are' driven through the upper into the lower side portions of the last at an angle so that the 8 head portions of the tacks extend downwardly. These tacks are driven into the sides of the last at or near the angle or bottom edge of the'same, as clearly shown in Figure 4.

When this operation is complete, the lower edges of the upper are in the shown in Figure 4.

The next step is the placing of the first sole Bon the wholly or partially lasted upper, this sle in one formbeing of the same wldth as the last plus the sides of the upper. It

position clearly may be secured to the last by tacks 9 (see y application Serial No. 95,853 and stitched by the stitching'mechanism designated generally by the reference character 11. The stitches 5 are formed through the sharp angle 8 above referred to and when the lasted upper is being sewed, it is so handled on the tiltin table that the stitching is very tight an close to the edges of the last and also goes over the side tacks 4, as indicated in Figure 6 and clearly shown in Figure 7.

This results in a completely and accurately lasted shoe and the hiding of any holes which mxy be left b the tacks 4 when withdrawn.

n the mo ification of the process shown in Figure 5, I iirst tack a sole 3 on the last 1.

This sole is wider than the bottom of the last, leaving the marginal edge. The upper 2 is then placed on the last and the edges thereof are drawn down and outwardly from the edge of the bottom of the last to the outer edge of the insole or beyond the same. The upper is then forced inwardly into the angle between the bottom of the last and the sole, allowing the out-turned edge of the upper to rest on the marginal edges of the sole. Tacks are driven into the side of the last as near the bottom thereof as possible, and the rest of the operation is the same.

1. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in pulling an upper downwardly and outwardly simultaneously from the bottom edge of the last at opposite sides thereof, then forcing the upper inwardly against the lower portion of the last and driving tacks through the upper into the sides of the last at or near the bottom edge of the same, placing a sole against the last with its edge supporting'the free out-turned edge of the upper at a substantially right angle to the last and upper, and then stitching this assembly through the angle of the upper.

2. In the art of making shoes, the process which 'consists in pulling an upper own- Wardly and outwardly from the bottom edge of the last, then forcing the upper inwardly against the lower portion of the last and driving tacks through the upper into the sides of lthe last at'or near the bottom edge of the same, placing a sole against the last `with its edge supporting the free out-turned edge of the upperv at a substantially right angle to the last and upper, and thenstithf lng this assembly through the an l/) of the upper and at an angle to thel sole, and over the tacks so as to pull the tacks down upon the sole and to hide the holes left by the tacks vwhen they are afterwards withdrawn.

3. In the art ofmaking shoes, the process which consists in pulling an upper 'downewardly and outwardlyfrom the bottom edge of the last, then forcing the upper inwardly against the lower 'portidn of the last and driving tacks through the upper into the sides of the last at or near the Abottom edge-of the.

same at an angle to the bottom of .the last, placing a sole against the last with its edge supporting the free out-turned edge of the upper at a substantially right angle to the last and upper, and then stitching this assembly through the angle of the upper, the securing of the same resulting in bending the tacks slightly upward.

y 4. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in pulling an upper downwardly and outwardly from the bottom edge of the last, then forcing the upper inwardly against the lower portion of the last and driving tacks through the upper into the sides of the last at or near the bottom edge of the same atan angle to the bottom of the last, placing a sole a ainst the last with its edge supporting the ree out-turned edge of the upper at a substantially right angle to the last and upper, and stitching th1s assembly through the angle of the upper in line with the tacks, whereby the securing of the same results in bendingthe tacks slightl upward, and the stitching hides the holes le by the withdrawaluof the tacks.

5. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in assembling a sole upon a last which is wider than the bottom of the last, placing an upper on the last and pulling the edge of the upper down to or over the edge of the sole so that the upper extends at an angle to the lower portion of the last, forcing the lower portion of the upper in toward the last into the angle between the last and the upper surface of the sole, and tackingl which comprises pulling an upper down wardl and outwardly simultaneously from the edyge of the last at opposite sides thereof, turning the free edge of the upper outwardly at a sharp angle tothe upper, and driving tacks through the upper and into the side of the last near the bottom thereof.

7. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in assembling an insole on a. last with the edge of the insole projecting beyond the bottom edge of the last', pulling an upper-downwardly and outwardly from the edge of the last to or over lthe edge of the insole, and driving tacks through the upper and into the side of the last near the bottomedge',V

-side of the last.v l l In testimony that l claim the foregoing, li

against the last with vits edge supportingthe free out-turned edge of the upper at a sube stantiallyl right angle to the last and upper, and stitc ing this assembly through the angle of the upper and over the tacks so as to pull the tacks down upon the sole and to hide the holes left b the tacks when they are afterwards with rawn. l

9. ln the method of making shoes, the steps of pulling an upper downwardly and outwardly simultaneously from the bottom edge of the last at opposite sides thereof, and driving tacks through the have hereunto set my hand this 27th day of January, 1930.. y c

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upper and into the 

